Villa d’Este: The new restaurant opened in a hidden Yorkshire village and named after nearby Roman ruins

The reason I mention this intriguing, but distinctly non-culinary, tale is that quite by coincidence, an Italian restaurant named after a famous Roman villa has opened in Ellerker. Almost two thousand years later and a few yards to the left, the Romans have returned to the village.

It’s only been a few months since I last waxed lyrical about my favourite East Riding Italian restaurant - Gusto in Hull - but in the few intervening weeks, owners Gianpaul Redolfi and Alex Stothard have sold up, moved out, bought the former Black Horse pub, entirely renovated it and opened their homage to the original Villa d’Este, a beautiful, huge, 16th century villa situated in Tivoli, near Rome. I’m not sure this handsome stone former boozer offers quite the same aesthetic as its Italian namesake, but I can confidently state that the food on offer is much the same as you’d be served anywhere in Italy.

Because authenticity and simplicity have always been Gianpaul’s motifs in the kitchen, nothing is over-fancy and it always feels like it’s been cooked somewhere in the hills above Bologna and magically transported instantly to your table. Alex takes care of front-of-house and his watchwords there are efficiency and friendliness. He has a superb team of young people under him. We’re welcomed, seated and sat with a drink in our hands before the door has even closed behind us. Everywhere there are happy, chomping punters, all equally well catered for.

In just under a month, Villa d’Este has proven enormously popular. The lads used to open just four evenings at Gusto, they now open five days for 12 hours at a time. Quite a step up, but it’s easy to see why they’ve chosen this route. The place is nicely full, seemingly all day long. Lunches are extended and last into early evening and night-time diners seem even less inclined to leave. It’s good to see.

I always ordered from the specials at Gusto and intend to do the same here. Burrata San Daniele has cheese imported from Naples wrapped in prosciutto from Udine and served with charred artichokes. Perfectly balanced so that nothing overpowers the fresh, clean taste of the Burrata.

The other starter, also off the specials, was Arrosticino d’Angnello; chargrilled lamb, served on a skewer with ‘Nduja cream and focaccia. Again, nothing too hot or spicy to diminish the lamb. Just the right kick and entirely delicious.

Only one main on the specials today, scaloppine di vitello al funghi porcini. Rose veal escalope with a mushroom sauce, served with parmesan and truffle creamed potato and spring greens. The best mash ever and simply sauteed greens support the tender veal and the sauce adds just the right amount of smooth earthiness.

Seafood lovers will rightly gravitate toward the spaghetti scoglio with its fresh squid, mussels, gamberoni and clams. An Italian staple it may be but it’s rarely better prepared.

Elsewhere on the menu, there are the usual carne, pesce, pizza and pasta offerings but you should be aware that the pizza is a speciality, made in a purpose-built wood-fired oven which means the bases are the best you’ll find for many a long mile.

Desserts included a chewy, crunchy, creamy torte Caprese and I had to have Gianpaul’s superb tiramisu, just so I could take a picture of it to send to my son to wind him up as he’s addicted to them.

Gianpaul and Alex are on to a good thing, and they know it. The skills they’ve honed over nearly a decade at Gusto are being enjoyed by the well-heeled of the nearby West Hull villages as well as those from the East Yorkshire countryside beyond. All they have to do is continue as they are and their marvellous new venture will never be empty and they will never look back. Deservedly so.

As we leave, there is a sunset so spectacular that even men with steel hearts would melt on seeing it. The dining garden, newly installed at Villa d’Este, offers the perfect view. I can’t wait for summer, when I’ll be here sat here, drinking fine wine and nibbling on whatever specials are on offer while imagining the sun is setting over the Tiber rather than the Humber.

The original Villa d’Este is a UNESCO world heritage site, visited by millions of people a year. Ellerker’s Villa d’Este may never reach such giddy heights but the food and the team certainly deserve just as much renown. We’ll just have to hope history doesn’t repeat itself and that no-one nicks their floor.

Open: Weds to Sat, 12-4 & 5-11; Sun 12-8

Villa d’Este, Church Lane, Ellerker, Brough, HU15 2DN Tel: 01430 423270